Finding Paradise in Hanalei

The little town of Hanalei

I know it sounds so trite, but I think I've found paradise. I shouldn't tell you where it is so that I can keep it a secret, but I can't help but share its name. It's a little town on Kauai's North Shore called Hanalei.


I still can't pinpoint exactly what it is about Hanalei that enthralls me so. We didn't actually stay there during our visit to Kauai. Other than it being our launching point for out Na Pali Coast boat outing, we didn't do anything major there either. Yet, it's lodged itself firmly in my heart as my favorite places on the island.

Windsurfing on Kauai's North Shore

We stayed in the next town over, Princeville. Princeville was fine. It's a master-planned community with resort hotels, golf courses, and lots of vacation homes. Take away its sea cliff setting and mountain view, and it could be any upscale suburban neighborhood in America. Hanalei is something else. It seems to have developed organically over time instead of springing forth fully formed like Princeville.

Taro fields seen from the Hanalei Valley Lookout

The first glimpse people often have of Hanalei is from a well marked lookout along the Kuhio Highway. One this side of the island, the first part of the highway runs along an inland path with the mountains rising up in the distance on one side and greenery along the road hiding your view of anything else. Then, you pull over at the lookout on the mauka (toward the mountain) side of the road, take a few steps from the car, and are treated to a sweeping, postcard-perfect view of the valley below. Taro fields make a verdant patchwork quilt across the land cut through by the Hanalei River. People have farmed this area for centuries. Today, 900 acres of the valley are set aside as a national wildlife refuge and are home to several species of native birds.

Watch out for Hawaii's state bird

For a view overlooking the curved bay -- "Hanalei" means "crescent" in Hawaiian -- we drove along Hanalei Plantation Road on the makai (toward the sea) side of the highway until it dead-ended. A locked gate keeps vehicles from going further, but there's an open pedestrian gate just to the left. From there, it's a short and easy half mile hike through the ruins of the old Club Med. All that's left of the buildings are the concrete foundations with a few pillars and half walls. I tried to convince the kids that it was the remains of an ill-fated, living dinosaur themed vacation resort. Part of the movie South Pacific was filmed on this spot which served as the Frenchman's estate. 

Hanalei Bay as seen from the ruins of the old Club Med

After the lookout and Hanalei Plantation Road, the road descends through a couple of switchbacks and crosses a narrow bridge built in 1912. This one lane bridge is the first of seven between here and the end of the road at Ke'e Beach. After this, the road runs along the coastline with beaches popping into view every few miles. 

American Gothic style Wai'oli Hui'ia Church

If I had to guess, I'd say it was the serenity I felt in Hanalei. The relaxed vibe. The cool calmness. Maybe it's because I had reached the sweet spot in a vacation where I'd recovered from the jetlag yet still had most of our trip stretching ahead of me. Maybe it's because no one else seemed to be in a rush either. They were living on island time. Maybe it's because I had the best shave ice in my life -- the sweet tropical flavor of lilikoi (passion fruit) tempering the spicy bite of the ginger syrup, all covered with a drizzly of honey. 

Wishing Well Organic Shave Ice

Whatever the reason, I need to return to Hanalei some day to see if I can figure it out.

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