Thursday, February 20, 2014

Up on Penang Hill

Sweat is pouring off me. I raise my feet, climbing step after step, upwards on Penang Hill. At least the jungle all around me provides a natural shade canopy, shielding me from the tropical sun. Why am I doing this? Because it's there. Because my fit friends do it and seem to enjoy the trek. Because my son does it, and I feel the need to literally go over the hill to prove that I'm not metaphorically over-the-hill. Because it's a way to experience the island while getting away from the hustle, bustle, and traffic that is George Town.

Penang Hill
Gratuitous monkey photo


Jungle Trek

My friend and I are taking the stairs leading upwards from the Moon Gate along Waterfall Road near the Botanical Garden. Other people ranging from athletes going on a trail run to senior citizens with trekking poles are out this morning as it's a popular hike for those looking to exercise outside. Steps are cut into the trail, keeping us from slipping on the muddy parts. Breaks in the trees give us little glimpses of the city below, showing us how far we've climbed. Monkeys look down from the branches, hoping that we'll get distracted so they can steal our water bottles. One time, a tree root suddenly starts slithering away a split moment before I realize that it's actually a long snake crossing the trail. At Station 5, a group has apparently hiked up to play mahjong or use the exercise equipment. Tea and water are available from volunteers who have carried up the supplies.

Penang Hill
Mahjong players at Station 5 rest area on Penang Hill jungle trek


Hiking up the Jeep Trail

When my son and husband go with the Boy Scouts, they take the paved 5 km Jeep Trail starting at the Botanical Garden parking lot. It's not a public road, so it's ideal for hiking. Two stations along the way provide refreshments and toilet facilities. Keep in mind your personal fitness level. My boy can make it to the top in about 90 minutes. Some other friends of mine took 4 hours to complete the same hike and couldn't walk for 2 weeks afterwards because their muscles were so sore. Other hiking trails start at Air Itam Dam, the Youth Park, and Hye Keat Estate.

Fun Time Riding the Funicular Train

By far, the most popular way to ascend Penang Hill is to take the funicular up from Air Itam. This way only takes 10 minutes and leaves you far less out-of-breath. On the other hand, it isn't free. (Tip: No matter how hard you try to speak Malay and pass yourself off as a local, they will still ask for your MyKAD card to get the discounted rate. Some expats have had success saving money by showing their visas.)

The train carries 100 people and departs every 15-30 minutes, depending on the crowd. Try to get a window with a good view of the tracks for the most excitement. There's one scary point mid-way when you swear you are about to crash into the oncoming train until they both suddenly shift to the side to avoid each other.

Newly refurbished funicular carriage

When you reach the top, you'll be at the most developed, touristy peak called Flagstaff Hill (Bukit Bendera) which was named after the flag that was raised there whenever the British post had arrived. At 823 meters (2,750 feet) above sea level, it has scenic vistas of George Town, the Straits of Malacca, and the mainland on a clear day. In the late 1700's when Penang was a British colony, the cooler climate up at the top encouraged the British to turn it into a hill station resort and clear land to grow strawberries. Best of all, it was free of the malaria sickness infesting the lowlands at the time.

Welcome to the Top

The main plaza near the top showcases a variety of entertainment. I've seen everything from symphonic quartet concerts to paying to have your picture taken with a giant, yellow and white, Burmese python wrapped around your shoulders. Take time to explore the rickety, wooden, funicular carriages of yesteryear that are on display. There's an Owl Museum, but frankly, everyone I know who has visited has rated it as boring, so we've never bothered to go in.

Penang Hill
Main plaza at top of Penang Hill's Bukit Bendera


Follow the road around to the right, and you'll come across stairs leading up to an area with a playground, Hindu temple, and mosque.

Banana tree and the only Hindu temple on Penang Hill


The Bellevue Hotel is a bit further along the road with an onsite Aviary Ginger Garden that you can pay to explore. It advertises itself as the "World's First Detergent-Free Hotel." What does that mean? I don't know. Walk through the hotel to the back where the cafe has a panoramic view of the northern side of the island. Oddly, there's also a geodesic dome in honor of Buckminster Fuller who once stayed here while helping to design what is now KOMTAR.

Penang Hill
Looking over the northern edge of the island towards Straits Quay from The Bellevue Hotel


You Take the High Road

My favorite section at the top of Penang Hill is taking a stroll along the Summit Road extending around to the left from the main plaza. Century-old heritage bungalows originally built for high ranking officers of the British East India Company line the road, and some of them will make you think you've stumbled upon a little cottage in jolly ole England.

Brownhead Bungalow where the well-to-do can escape to cooler air

It's a long but easy walk. Most people hitch a ride on a buggy which are for hire at the base of the playground stairs near the main plaza for RM30-60.

Penang Hill, burka
Hire a buggy if you don't want to walk.

A viewing platform by the side of the road has one of the best views from the hill. Keep an eye out for the red post box with the VR (Victoria Regina/Queen Victoria) insignia on it. It's supposedly one of the oldest in Penang and certainly on the Hill.

Penang Hill
The oldest postbox on Penang Hill


Carnivorous Plants

Near the end of the Summit Road, about a 30-40 minute walk, you'll find the Monkey Cup Garden. These carnivorous pitcher plants are said to be nature's answer to how monkeys quench their thirst. I think they only resort to this when their efforts to steal tourist water bottles fail.

Penang Hill
Monkey Cups
See the spider inside the one on the bottom left?


There's not much razzle dazzle to the garden, but my girl and I were satisfied by looking at the over 100 varieties growing here along the mossy ground trying to figure out which ones were having success at trapping insects. And silently in my head, I kept singing the songs from Little Shop of Horrors the whole time.

Penang Hill
A leaf frog, traditional instruments, Venus flytraps, and enjoying the swing


Spend the Night on the Hill

One of the Boy Scouts' favorite places to camp on the island is at the Nature Lodge of the Methodist Centre located off Upper Tunnel Road West. Although the price is a bit too dear for single family camping, it's a great location for a group event. A sheltered area beneath the building provides protection from Penang's frequent rainstorms. There's an ample lawn for pitching tents. Best of all, a few thatched huts on stilts constructed by the orang asli (natives) occupy the property, too. Hubby says that these stay surprisingly dry in a rainstorm, too. If you plan on camping here, you can hire a jeep from the Bellevue Hotel to carry your equipment up.

Penang Hill, Methodist Centre


Feed Me

All that walking around makes my family a bit hungry. At the very least, the promise of ice cream has kept the kids going when they'd rather lay down on the road and refuse to move. The cheapest eats are at the Cliff Cafe at the 3-story building at the Main Plaza. Numerous hawkers offer Assam Laksa, Char Koay Teow, Ais Kacang, and other local delights.

Penang Hill, hawker
Cold Ais Kacang (Bean Ice) is refreshing on a hot day.


The cafe at the back of the Bellevue Hotel is a scenic spot to enjoy a cocktail. Watch out for pit vipers in the trees, by the way.

The fanciest restaurant is on the hillock near the upper funicular station and is called David Brown's Restaurant and Tea Terrace. I imagine that many Penang brides must dream of having their wedding reception at such a romantic spot. While the setting was idyllic, I found the Western food to be pricey, and I didn't think that the taste measured up to the upscale meal they were aspiring to offer. Next time, I think I'll just plan on having appetizers or dessert here instead of a full meal.

Penang Hill
Romantic David Brown's Restaurant

Back Down Again

Your options for getting back down to the base are about the same as the ones to get up Penang Hill. Some people mix it up by running up and then taking the train down. (Penang Momma, I'm talking about you). My boy is most in awe of a friend who longboarded down the Jeep Trail. Please make sure you have good insurance before you try this X-Games-style stunt. If you hike back down to the Moon Gate, reward yourself with a tall, cool glass of freshly squeezed juice or coconut water (nature's Gatorade) at the Juice Stand across the street.

If You Go:

  • Find more information on jungle trekking trails at Forest Explorers or Penang Trails. Trails are not marked, so for the first few times, you may want to go with someone who is experienced hiking these routes. Otherwise, you can end up at the base far from where you parked the car, as my son's friends discovered. 
  • RapidPenang bus line 204 takes you to the bottom funicular station.
  • If you are driving to the funicular station, follow the signs to "Bukit Bendera."
  • Current funicular train schedules and fares can be found at the Penang Hill webpage.
  • The menu  and contact information for reservations at David Brown's Restaurant and Tea Terraces can be found on the webpage. Open 9AM-9PM.
  • Aviary Ginger Garden at The Bellevue admission is Adults RM8 and Children RM5. Open 9AM-6PM.
  • Reservations for The Methodist Centre Nature Lodge can be made at the Bellevue Hotel.




This post is part of Travel Photo Thursday on Budget Travelers Sandbox, "Oh the Places I've Been" on The Tablescaper, Sunday Traveler on Ice Cream and Permafrost, and Travel Photo Mondays on Travel Photo Discovery. Check them out for more around-the-world travel inspiration.

37 comments:

  1. What a fantastic activity - you are no where near even thinking of being over-the-hill and keep up these kinds of climbs and you never will be! Beautiful photos and tons of information - thanks!

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  2. Hello over there in Malaysia, this is a terrific post, very comprehensive, just what I would need when getting ready to take this hike. It sounds great exercise! Lots and lots of great exercise! Hope you're all keeping well, lovely to catch up with you after long school holidays here and the madness of starting school again.

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  3. Loved this and it brought back such memories of when I was there in 1983 - woah too long ago. Beautiful photos!

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  4. A beautiful place to visit (ummm) I'll take the easy way, though. Sounds like the monkeys are quite pesky. So entertaining a story of your trip.

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  5. Wow! What a trip! I've heard of those pitcher plants. But to see them in person. What an experience!

    - Alma, The Tablescaper

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  6. Very informative post Michele. I haven't been up there for more than 15 years i reckon? :p

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  7. What a interesting place to visit. So many sights to see. I would like to ride the train up the hill. The plants are neat. Great post, thanks for sharing. Have a happy weekend!

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  8. I was sweating right along with you, and yes, an ice cream sounds great right about now! Oh, and never been to Penang, but I'm so taking the funicular...I can't ever pass one up!

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  9. I love all the little surprises you brought us on Penang Hill and such diverse activities and sights. Those views are beautiful. That funicular carriage picture looks like it's a miniature version. pretty cool shot.

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  10. What a detailed description of the different experiences hiking or travelling Penang Hill. I feel as though as I was there with you.

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  11. It was a great idea for a shot. I love the oldest postbox on Penang Hill.

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  12. You've given a detailed description, and the reader feels part of your journey. The view of the northern edge of the island from The Bellevue Hotel is magnificent.

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  13. I loved everything in your post! Those carnivorous plants are amazing. And the garden of the restaurant looks so romantic (minus the vipers).

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  14. I "did the hill a few years ago, and really enjoyed it. I took the old funicular. The new cars look really snazzy. Thanks for taking me down memory lane. Next time I'm in Pennang I'll hike up, as long as the snakes stay away!

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  15. Looks like there's so much to do there! I was meant to go to Penang a few years ago until our itinerary changed. I'll take your advice when we do go back :)

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  16. I'd be on that funicular for sure! Cheers for linking up with this to #SundayTraveler

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  17. I love exploring up there is so much cooler than Georgetown and the quirky things you do find there are strange and fun at the same time. THanks for taking us to some of the other spots I didn't get to see when I was exploring up there, loved revisiting again!

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  18. I've always wanted to hike to the top. We only taken the cable car though. Next visit!

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  19. Great post and photos! This sees like such an interesting part of Malaysia and we can't wait to get the chance to visit! It's always nice to have a place to escape the hustle and bustle of the city - and Penang Hill seems perfect. Thanks for sharing and safe travels!

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  20. Bean Ice looks interesting and I bet it does go down well on a hot day. I love the pitcher plants. Can the monkeys undo the lids on the water bottles? I bet the python would prefer to slither off into the jungle than be draped around tourists necks - wouldn't that create havoc :)

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  21. The pitcher plants are so fascinating - the view is definitely worth the hiking effort.

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  22. This is amazing! I wish we had hiked this while we were there, but most time was spent in Georgetown! Gorgeous views, and love that food!:-)

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  23. Uh, I am such a terrible climber. Always been. I can swim, I can cycle, I can walk, but I cannot climb even the slightest hill without feeling miserable. *not proud of this*. So, I guess my way up the Penang Hill would be with a funicular. Lovely photos! How about that "Detergent Free Hotel"?!

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  24. Waauw, wonderful post, I was sweating with you! This sounds like something I'd really like: hiking, spectacular views, and ow boy, the food! :)

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  25. Looks like a really fun trip! The dessert looks amazing and I love the name - monkey cup garden.

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  26. Sorry I'm here so late this week, Michele! That view from the Bellevue Hotel is amazing and I looked it up online...I would love to stay there! Do they offer those hikes were part of the way can be a piggy back ride? I don't want to be sore for 2 weeks afterwards. But, I must say I might be able to buck up and succeed on my on my own if that Cold Ais Kacang was waiting for me! Great post :)

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  27. Loved going on this virtual hike with you. It's fascinating to see your photos of this part of the world! I'd like some of that ice cream, please!

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  28. What a wonderful post, Michele, very comprehensive. I would love to hike up there, but the slithering reptiles worry me - have there been many victims?

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    1. I've known a ton of people who hike up and not an single one has been bitten. I wouldn't let the snakes dissuade you.

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  29. hi do u have The Methodist Centre Nature Lodge contact number? Can we just call to the reception counter to do the booking?

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    1. The Nature Lodge can be booked through the Bellevue Hotel, bellevuehotel.my/hotel.htm; telephone 604-227-4006 or 604-829-9500. Enjoy!

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    2. Hi Michele, i email to ask the bellevuehotel, they are not sure of the booking. How you all make the reservation? direct call or email them?

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    3. Our contact there is Ms. Pavarthy. Her HP is 012 429 0923, email mypenbell (at) yahoo (dot) com. Sorry for spelling out the email strange, but I don't want the spambots to get it.

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  30. hey blogger thanks for this nice information about Trekking.

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  31. Well, Asia can be pretty different than Texas, but worth trying.
    I like that Malaysia has monkeys, because these primates are truly something extraordinary especially if you see what are they capable of doing.

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