Pangkor Laut: An Island Spa Paradise

Infinity Pool and Spa Villas at Pangkor Laut Resort

Pangkor Laut isn't just one of Malaysia's best spas; it's one of the top destination spas in the world according to Conde Nast Traveller UK. It's an island for strolling hand-in-hand in the moonlight, relaxing on the beach and gazing into each others eyes. This place is made for honeymooners looking for a quiet getaway. The romantic forces at this resort are so strong that having three kids with us wasn't a mood killer. Plus, the top-notch, call-me-by-name service made me feel like a celebrity.

The resort encompasses an entire private island separate from the nearby, bigger Pangkor Island. From Penang, it's a 3-hour drive down to Lumut on the mainland and then a 15-minute speedboat journey. Racing over the smooth water, I enjoyed this ride much more than the one on the Thai snorkeling trip I had taken the previous month. Perhaps there's hope for me after all.

On the island, you'll find Peacocks resting in the Library (I'm guessing non-native); Bats squawking in the afternoon;
Hornbills stealing your french fries; and Fish swimming beneath the walkways.

As we sauntered from the pier into the reception hall, I half expected to find Mr. Roarke and Tatoo toasting us with a "Welcome to Fantasy Island." Well, if your fantasy is experiencing the best massage you've had in your life, you've come to the right place. Instead, we were greeted with a tray of fragrant, chilled towels, just the thing for cooling off on a hot day. Seriously, I'm going to start keeping chilled towels in my fridge at home. Then — this is the part that impressed me — the receptionist walked up and greeted us by name to go over the details of our stay. How did she know who we were? Hubby wasn't the only white guy on the boat. Did they surreptitiously take our pictures when we checked in on the mainland and transmit it with our names to the island? Hmmm...

Our room was fantastic and decorated in an upscale, Malay kampung village style. The Spa Villas built over the water (pictured at the top of this post) are reserved for guests over 16 years old, but the other guestrooms are available for families. Natural light filled the bathroom, and the marble tub was enormous. We were told to keep our sliding door locked if we weren't in our rooms because the monkeys could open them and knew exactly where the minibar was. Did we really want to pay for a simian wine party?



One of our Garden Villa rooms with a beautiful view.

The big reason to visit Pangkor Laut is to take advantage of their world class spa that offers treatments from all over Asia. I elected to enjoy a Balinese massage and thought it was the best I've ever had. There are plenty of options for couples and men, including the very manly Bukit Gantang Warrior Treatment. Alas, I left my man in charge of three kids at the beach while I relaxed at the spa.


What really sets Pangkor Laut apart is its Bath House Ritual that takes place before your spa treatment. Considering that I had skipped the shuttle and trekked through the jungle to get from the beach to the spa, I was quite happy to clean up before my massage. It starts out with a Chinese foot pounding historically used to ease the pain of bound feet. Then, they escort you to the dressing room where you change into a sarong. Toss a coin into a well and make a wish before you descend, sarong and all, into a cool Malay bath in a walled garden. With water pouring out of urns, it's quite invigorating. Climb out and inhale the herbal concoctions at four stations — Uplifting, Passion, Calming, and Detox. At the Japanese bath, scrub down with a goshi-goshi cloth then pour water over yourself with the dipper. As soon as you sink into the delightfully warm Rotenburu pool, someone serves you a cold cup of green tea. Is she waiting just around the corner for the moment you're ready? Next up is the Shanghai scrub. Lying down on a table, the attendant scrubs your back with a body brush then throws buckets of heated water over you. You'll feel like royalty with ladies-in-waiting. When it's done, select a dry, batik sarong to change into before your massage and to keep as a souvenir. After your spa treatment, feel free to use the open air shower before changing back into your regular clothes.

I've reached that odd point in life where I pay someone to pound my feet.

The beach at Emerald Bay on the other side of this private island is far prettier than the ones in Penang. During World War II it was the site of a daring submarine rescue of a British colonel who had been hiding in the Malay jungles. True to it's name, the water sparkled with a jewel green hue, and the quiet surf invited everyone young and old in to play. Although, hubby did say he had hoped for bigger waves. A small stand lended out snorkeling equipment and inner tubes, but they forewarned us that the water wasn't really clear enough for good aquatic viewing. At least there were plenty of lounge chairs and bar service.

Secluded Emerald Bay

If the spa and the beach aren't enough to keep you busy, you're welcome to try out some of the other activities. We didn't do any of the cruises but could see the boats setting sail. There are two pools including the one in Spa Village reserved for adults. The Water Activity shack offered kayaks, catamarans, and wakeboarding. It seemed that everyone was in the mood for chilling out because the tennis courts were empty every time we walked by. One morning, I dragged my family on the guided jungle walk which I thought was very informative. But I can just hear them telling their friends about it, "Then, she forced us to march through the jungle..." My favorite area is the Library. With lounges and a couple four-poster beds hung with gauzy linens, it invited us to relax with a good book (or do homework, as I made my kids do during their downtime).

Naturalist explains bird nest ferns on guided walk; Water Activities; Relaxing in the Library; Jungle trek

Food is the other highlight of Pangkor Laut. Since we had the kids with us, I didn't have a chance to try the adults-only restaurants. The breakfast buffet had many cooked-to-order dishes and even a juice bar. Just put the fruits you want liquified on a plate and bring them to the juice man. Since I'm a novice, I had no idea how many apples are needed to make a full glass and had to go back for more. At Uncle Lim's, listen to the waves crashing on rocks while enjoying Nyonya and Chinese Hockchew homestyle cooking. I highly recommend the soft shell crab and the garlic prawns. The open kitchen design at Feast Village invited guests to wander around watching various dishes being made. Their ice cream is some of the tastiest I've had in Malaysia that I didn't make myself.



Garlic Prawns at Uncle Lim's; dinner prep at Feast Village; Making Roti Jala for breakfast; Chapman's Bar by the beach

Pangkor Laut delivered on their promise of a relaxing getaway. Normally, I steer clear from any place advertised as "romantic" when the kids are coming along, but friends' previous visits assured me that it would be okay. They don't really cater to kids (no kids club or pool slides), but they made them feel welcome. Their policy of reserving certain areas for adults kept me from feeling that we were infringing on a couple's honeymoon.

Have I peaked your interest? Check out the Pangkor Laut website for information or if you're in the mood for a little more daydreaming. Just perusing the variety of spa treatments is fascinating. If you live in Malaysia or Singapore, take advantage of the meals-inclusive Resident's Package which is available to both locals and expats.



This post is part of Travel Photo Thursday at Budget Travellers Sandbox, Photo Friday at Delicious Baby, "Luxury Getways" at Zigazag, and Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom? Check them out for more around-the-world travel inspiration.

Mystery Fruit #3: Passion Fruit

Mystery Fruit #3

At first glance, I thought it was a Gala Apple or perhaps a Dinosour Egg pluot.  But it was perfectly round, about the size of a tennis ball, and not apple-shaped in the least. The wet market man told me it was a Passion Fruit. All the pictures I had seen of passion fruit were of the wrinkly skinned, dark purple variety, so this beautiful specimen was a bit of a revelation to me. In Texas, I only had it as part of a tropical fruit punch from a bottle at the grocery store. On our visit to Hawaii a couple summers ago, I enjoyed passion fruit (called lilikoi there) in salad dressings, jams, and syrups drizzled over shaved ice. This was my chance to have one fresh!

Sometimes, I play "Guess What It Looks Like Inside" with myself. Before cutting open a mystery fruit and taking a bite, I try to guess what I'll see after slicing through it. Umm... I didn't expect to find this.

Passion Fruit

The thick, outer rind surrounded a big glob of slippery, yellow pearls of fruity flesh encasing each individual, dark seed. I'll admit that the first thing that came to my mind was Frog Eggs.

Scooping out a spoonful, I slurped it up, seeds and all.  It was tart but sweet and tasted like the tropics, kind of like pineapple but not exactly. I've been eating them straight out of the rind but mean to start mixing them into my morning yogurt.

One interesting tidbit I came across is that the name has nothing to do with libido. Instead, it's a reference to the Passion of Christ. From Wikipedia:

The name was given by missionaries because the parts of the flower seemed reminiscent of the torture (the Passion) of Christ prior to his crucifixion:

• The three stigmas reflect the three nails in Jesus's hands and feet.
• The threads of the passion flower resemble the Crown of Thorns.
• The vine's tendrils are likened to the whips.
• The five anthers represented the five wounds.
• The ten petals and sepals regarded to resemble the Apostles (excluding Judas and Peter).
• The purple petals representing the purple robe used to mock Jesus' claim to kingship (Mt. 27:28)

Related Posts:
Mystery Fruit #1: Ciku
Mystery Fruit #2: Elixir of Immortality
Mystery Fruit #4: Mangosteen
Mystery Fruit #5: Dragonfruit

 

Holiday Home Times Interview

Wonders of wonders, people other than just my mother read this blog. The good folks over at Holiday Home Times stumbled across my ramblings and decided to interview me about expat life in Penang. (If you haven't figured it out yet, I am really enjoying myself.) Holiday Home Times features news, tips, and articles for holiday homeowners, investors, retirees, and vacationers in Asia.

Check out my interview that covers everything from tourist destinations, nightlife, and dining to real estate and retiring in beautiful Penang, the Pearl of the Orient.

The 10,000 Torii Gates of Kyoto's Fushimi-Inari Shrine

Every gate is donated, and each one is marked with the donor's name and date of contribution.

When I began planning our trip to Japan last spring, I asked the advice of my dear cousin, Sandra, who had visited there recently. She wrote back,

"There are vending machines for drinks everywhere!!! Like literally everywhere. In the middle of tiny alleyways and right next to people's driveways. So it's good to have coins handy. Loved the green tea ice cream. I think I ate that everyday I was there. "

She also recommended Fushimi-Inari Shrine in Kyoto. As soon as I saw the pictures, I instantly recognized it from one of my favorite scenes in Memoirs of a Geisha when young Sayuri runs through them. Thousands of vermilion torii gates line pathways stretching from behind the shrine's main ground upwards into the wooded hills of sacred Mount Inari. It immediately went on my Must-See List.

Getting there was quite easy. It's across the street from the JR Inari Station, a couple stops from Kyoto Station on the JR Nara Line. We reached it just an hour before dark and found the place quiet with only a few visitors milling around.

Enter through a giant torii gate and then the Romon Gate (donated in 1589).

Stone foxes, messengers of the gods, sit next to the gate watching over a woman dressed in a traditional kimono.

Fox face ema tablets offer up wishes and prayers to spirits and gods.

 

Two paths, two boys

The dense rows of gates occasionally stop, giving you a view of Kyoto.



Perhaps this young bride is practicing her walk down the aisle.

We had to turn around before reaching the summit since dusk was beginning to settle on the city. I'm so glad my family went, and I'm thankful that Sandra's suggestion led us there.



......................................................

 

Sadly, Sandra was suddenly taken from us last weekend. Other than liking each other's Instagram posts, her Kyoto trip recommendation sent six months ago was the last time we communicated. My memories of Fushimi-Inari Shrine are now tinged with sorrow. Even though justice will surely be served, it can't change that she's gone from this earth. But I take solace in knowing that our feet walked on the same pathways and that we both found joy in the experience. I love you Sandra.


Related Post:
Kyoto Station is Enchanted

 

This post is part of Travel Photo Thursday on Budget Travelers Sandbox, Photo Friday at Delicious Baby, Travel Bucket List Wednesdays at Latin Abroad, and Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom? Check them out for more around-the-world travel inspiration.

Capture the Colour

Katie Not In Prague, my fellow American-expat-in-Malaysia blogger, nominated me to join her in Travel Supermarket's Capture the Colour contest. Just like my college applications, I'm squeezing in just under the deadline. They're looking for photos that capture the following 5 colors — blue, green, yellow, white and red.


BLUE
Wouldn't you love to take your kids to Walt Disney World for Christmas? Well, it's mighty expensive, so we arrived the afternoon of New Year's Day when rates go waaaaaay down. All the holiday lights and decorations were still up, so I think we didn't miss out on much. Oh wait, we did miss out on the huge crowds that had been there a week earlier.

Dazzling holiday lights on Cinderella's Castle reflected in the moat — Orlando, Florida 2008

GREEN
The upside to the economic downturn of 2009 is that hubby was forced to use up almost of all of the vacation he'd been rolling over year after year. My parents came to watch the kids, and hubby and I escaped to Puerto Rico. As we were hiking through El Yunque National Rainforest, I couldn't believe how lush the greenery was. Little did I know that two years later, I'd be living on the other side of the world on another jungle-covered island. One tip that I figured out in Puerto Rico and use in Malaysia is that Raincoat + Tropical Climate = Perspiration can't Evaporate.



High up in El Yunque National Rainforest looking past the coast to the sea — Puerto Rico, 2009

YELLOW
Our first trip that didn't focus on visiting relatives took us to British Columbia, Canada and the state of Washington. While I was initially apprehensive about taking three young kids hiking in Olympic National Park, it turned out great. I found a site that reviewed the handicap accessibility of various trails in the park and figured that a stroller could go wherever a wheelchair could. While the kids finished up their dinner at Kalaloch Lodge, I ducked outside to take photos of the glorious sunset. I love how the sun's egg yolk yellow glow refuses to let go and is reflected in the water.

Bidding adieu to the sun at Kalaloch Lodge — Oympic National Park, Washington, 2007

WHITE
Two hours west of El Yunque Rainforest in Puerto Rico, you'll find Rio Camuy Caves, the largest cave system in the Western Hemisphere. We were there at the same time as a troop of Puerto Rican Cub Scouts. It turns out scouts in Puerto Rico are just as rambunctious as the ones in Texas. We donned hardhats and took the trolley down to the trail into the caves. At the end of the tour, the sun hit the entrance to Clara Cave just right, causing brilliant white light to stream into the darkness.

Out of the darkness and into the light — Rio Camuy Caves, Puerto Rico 2009

RED
Red is a prevalent color in Chinese culture and symbolizes good fortune. At Penang's Goddess of Mercy temple, devotees come to seek her blessings and pray for good luck and prosperity. But they don't come empty handed. They stop by the little kiosks outside the temple to purchase offerings for the goddess. The air around the temple is heavy with the fragrence of the smoldering, pillar-like dragon joss sticks. Smaller red incense sticks are used, too.

Offerings for sale outside the Goddess of Mercy Temple — Penang, 2012

I hope you enjoyed these. My color-blind son gives them two giant thumbs up (unless thumbs up is considered offensive in your culture.) Flipping through all my photos has been a great walk down memory lane. If I had access to the pre-digital-era prints sitting in my Texas home, I'm sure the search for the perfect photo to represent each color would have taken much longer. Since it's the last day of the contest, I'll refrain from nominating anyone new.


Which color category is your favorite?


Related Posts
Night Falls on Penang Island
U.S. National Park Week: Part 1


This post is part of Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom? Check it out for more travel inspiration.

Kids Top Picks for Indoor Fun in Penang

Penang has more than its fair share of beaches, jungle walks and parks. But sometimes, I just want to do something indoors with the kids. They need a place to burn off some youthful energy while I can rest my weary, middle-aged bones without worrying that they'll run off into the wilderness. The air-conditioning is a bonus, too. Here are a few of my kids' favorite spots.

Adventure Zone
When we visited our home in Texas, people would invariably ask the kids what is their favorite thing about Penang. The younger two always declared, "Adventure Zone!" It's part of the Golden Sands Resort in Batu Feringgi but open to the public and a very popular place.



Double Drop Slide with ball pit and Demon Drop Slide

The centerpiece of this play area is the drop slides. Seriously, I've never seen anything like this in the United States. There's a trio of wavy racing slides and one double-drop slide that ends in a ball pit. But the scariest one of them all is the Demon Drop Slide. It's 24-feet tall and extremely steep. In fact, I couldn't bear to push my child off at the top. It just went against my maternal instincts to shove my kid into an abyss. Luckily, there's always an attendant at the top who is more than happy to help out the youngsters. Adventure Zone also has a 2-story playscape plus a separate area for toddlers and a play kitchen.

Upstairs, kids can play the Nintendo Wii (RM15 for 30 minutes), foosball or the few arcade games. For an extra charge, try out the Segway Course just outside. As for me, I really like that they have a cafe with drinks (Coffee!!), snacks and ice cream.



Racing Slides

Admission is for 2 hours of play, and kids are required to wear socks and long-sleeve shirts. My son loves this place so much, he had his birthday party here.

Open 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
RM20 on weekdays
RM30 on weekends and public holidays
Reduced rates for resort guests
Adventure Zone sometimes runs a promotion letting the 4th child in free with 3 paid admissions.


Cartoon World on Level 5 of Gurney Paragon Mall and is ideal for young kids ages 3 to 6 years old. It's filled with mini-amusement park type rides (RM5 each) like a carousel and arcade games (RM2 per play) where children can earn tickets to go towards prizes. There is also a small playscape area that is RM5. My friend recently hosted her daughter's 6th Birthday party here, and a fabulous time was had by all.

Cartoon World at Gurney Paragon Mall.

When you arrive, you get a card and put money on it. The charge is dependent on how many kids you're bringing in. That money then goes towards the activities inside Cartoon World.

Mega Kiddie World - Queensbay Mall & Gurney Plaza

The top floor of Queensbay Mall and Gurney Plaza, Level 4 have quite a collection of amusements for the youth of Penang. My daughter always begs to go to Mega Kiddie World. I think there's another location at Sunway Carnival Mall in Butterworth, too. This multi-story playscape easily entertains kids from ages 3 to 7 years. My only gripes are that the waiting area for parents has a paltry 3 small benches, and they charge adults if they want to accompany their young child inside. Admission is for a full day of play with wristband. Bring socks.

RM12 on Monday-Thursday
RM15 on Friday, Saturday and Sunday
RM18 on public holidays and school holidays
RM3 for adults accompanying children into playscape

Mega Kiddie World in Queensbay Mall (Gurney Plaza location is smaller.)

Urban Playground
Located on the 2nd floor of Penang Times Square, Urban Playground keeps the kids entertained and active with inflatable bounce houses, slides, and ball pits.

Inflatable slides
(Photo courtesy of Urban Playground)

A glow-in-the-dark miniature golf course  has 18 holes for the kids to try out their putting skills. They'll probably need a jillion strokes to get the ball in the hole, but who cares if they're having fun.

Glow-in-the-Dark Miniature Golf (Photo courtesy of Urban Playground)

KidLand Edutainment Center
One of the newest additions to Penang is Kidland in Prangin Mall. Activity centers such as Hospital, Police, Fire Department, Music Studio, Cooking, and Science Laboratory allow children to try their hand at a variety of careers. Staff members guide kids through each activity to ensure maximum fun and learning. My 8-year-old spent 7 hours here and still did not want to leave. There's a multi-story playscape and a cafe, too. Parents of older children are permitted to drop them off. Prices are RM30-45 depending on the day. See my full writeup at Learning by Playing in Penang at Kidland.

Jump Street Trampoline Park
Leap around on wall-to-wall trampolines, see how many rounds you can last in the dodgeball arena, jump into the foam pit, and whack your buddy on the Battle Beam. Jump Street Penang is the perfect place for both kids and adults to burn some energy. Special area for the little kids so they don't get trampled by the big ones, too. Cafe on site. Atrium level of D'Piazza Mall, Bayan Baru.

Video Game Arcades
I've seen these at quite a few malls around town. Not surprisingly, they are loud and filled with tweens and teens. I didn't see many games suitable for young children.

• Mega Leisure World in Queensbay Mall, just around the corner from Mega Kiddie World
• Gurney Plaza on the 7th floor past the movie cinema
• Tesco Shopping Center in Tanjung Bungah, 2nd floor

Movie Theatres
It's air-conditioned, and I don't have referee the kids for a blessed 1.5 hours. What's not to like? Who cares if the plot makes no sense and the jokes are only so-so? Kids' movies at Gurney Plaza sometimes sell out a couple hours before the start time on weekends, so I highly recommend purchasing your tickets online ahead of time or hit the box office early. Snacks and drinks are so cheap here compared to America — US$3.30 for 2 regular drinks plus a regular popcorn!

• Gurney Plaza - Golden Screen Cinemas
• 1st Avenue Mall in George Town - TGV Cinemas
• Prangin Mall in George Town - Lotus Five Star Cinemas
• Queensbay Mall - Golden Screen Cinemas
• Bukit Jambul in Bayan Lepas - Lotus Five Star Cinemas

Related Posts
Future Pewter Craftsmen at Royal Selangor
5 Places for Kids to Ride Bikes and Scooters in Penang
Butterflies and Burkas

Milking a Coconut and Making Ice Cream

Years before I ever suspected we were going to one day become expatriates ourselves, I devoured David Lebovitz's book, The Sweet Life in Paris, about his adventures as a well-known American pastry chef moving to a city renowned for its food scene. Afterwards, I came away thinking that a) living abroad might be fun; and b) I am too gauche to live in Paris. I still bop around Lebovitz's food blog, so I can continue daydreaming about food and European expat life. One day, I stumbled upon a Quick Coconut Ice Cream recipe that had "make this" written all over it.

When I move back to America, I think one thing I'll miss is fresh coconut milk. It really lends such a fabulous flavor to curries (I recommend Thai Choice Yellow Curry Paste) and, as I discovered, ice cream. Many wet markets here make coconut milk fresh every day, and a ¼ cup costs about US$0.30. The 4-person stand pictured below does very brisk business.

Step 1:
Cut coconuts in half with big, scary knife.



 

Step 2:
Hold coconut half against rotating grinder wheel to take off outer brown husk.

Step 3:
Throw coconut into top of machine where it goes through the shredder and drops into a big tub.

Step 4:
Gather shredded coconut into a muslin cloth or cheesecloth and bring it over to the press.

Man gathers shredded coconut in muslin cloth

Step 5:
The press squeezes down on the bag, and the coconut milk drips out into a bucket.

Step 6:
Transfer the coconut milk from the bucket to a pitcher for easy dispensing into plastic bags tied closed with a rubber band.

Fresh coconut milk

When I move back to Austin (hometown of Whole Foods Market), I suppose I'll have to just get used to buying this instead.

Not-as-fresh Coconut Milk

While I was at the wet market, I also stopped by the baking stall to pick up a package of Gula Melaka (Palm Sugar made from boiled down palm tree sap) to act as the sweetener. Before making the ice cream, I had to chop the disk into fine chunks just to speed up the process of dissolving it in the hot coconut milk.

Gula Melaka (Palm Sugar)

Palm Sugar is a a little hard to find in America, but I did see it on the shelves of the International Foods aisle at Whole Foods. A Indian or Asian market may be another source.

This Palm Sugar is much more expensive than buying it from the wet market in Malaysia.

The ice cream I made was fantastic. (The recipe is at the bottom of this post.) The tropical flavor of the coconut and the deep richness of the palm sugar had me practically licking the custard before it was cool enough not to burn my tongue. Waiting for it to chill and throw in the ice cream maker was torture. It's vegan, too, if you care about that sort of thing. I would show you a picture, but I ate it all before I could whip out my camera.

I realize that not everyone has the time to source exotic ingredients or the equipment to churn their own ice cream. Luckily, I found a place in Austin, Texas where you can get your fix. Lick Ice Cream on South Lamar makes small batch, organic ice cream using local ingredients (except for the coconut, I assume). There were three vegan coconut flavors on the menu the day we visited. For their Fresh Mint and Chocolate Chunk ice cream, I swear that they must steep fresh mint leaves in hot cream to capture that incredibly bright flavor. No peppermint extract here. A word of warning though — while my palate was delighted with the artisanal flavors, my kids were less enthralled. I think they were wishing for candy crush-ins.

Lick Honest Ice Cream — Creamy goodness in every bite

Artisanal flavors

COCONUT ICE CREAM
adapted from David Lebovitz (who adapted it from Delicious Days by Nicole Stich)
⅔ cup (160 ml) heavy cream
1 cup (250 ml) coconut milk
2 ounces (60 g) palm sugar, or ¼ cup white or unrefined cane sugar ("normal" granulated sugar)

In a medium-sized saucepan, bring all the ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer gently for ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat, and chill the mixture thoroughly. Once chilled, freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s directions. Makes about 1 pint.


Related Post
I Scream!!

This post is part of Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom? and Foodie Tuesday on Inside Journeys.