Don't Anger the Orangutans

When we visited Borneo, seeing semi-wild orangutans at the Semenggoh Wildlife Centre was at the top of my list. My kids and hubby found this mighty peculiar since I have developed a love/hate relationship with the marauding monkeys at our local park in Penang. Imagine squirrels at any American park. Now, imagine that they have opposable thumbs and a yearning to steal your stuff. "So, you want to pay to see monkeys?" my kids asked. "Because, you know, you can see them for FREE at home." True, but these orangutans are definitely in a different league. For the record, they're also not monkeys since they don't have tails.

The Centre is a halfway house for orangutans. After a hard life of partying with humans or injuring themselves living it up in the jungle, the rescued apes end up in rehab at the Sarawak Forestry Corporation. After they've been nursed back to health and taught to fend for themselves, they're released into the surrounding rainforest preserve.  Twice a day, wardens leave out heaps of fruit on platforms to supplement whatever nourishment the orangutan have been able to forage for themselves in the jungle. As they become more self-sufficient, their visits to the Wildlife Centre start decreasing.

This guy stuffed the entire bunch of bananas in his mouth at one time.

When we arrived for feeding time, the staff told us a little bit about their rehabilitation program and orangutans in general. But much of their talk focused on warning us to keep our distance, a minimum of 6 yards, from the orangutans. This isn't one of those up-close interaction, hug and hold, petting zoo type of places. They are firmly committed to making these animals fully independent. Humans are the "intruders" in the jungle, and it's up to the humans to keep out of the way of the orangutans freely wandering around the centre.  Not destroying their habitat would also be a step in the right direction.

The sign with prohibited items gave some clues to how previous human interaction had gone. No tripods are allowed because the orangutans may mistake them for blowguns. Bringing food and drinks is prohibited so that the orangutans won't be tempted to come and grab them from you, whether you invite it or not. I know how I feel when a little macaque monkey comes after my snack, and I certainly didn't want to bait an ape that outweighed me. The lack of primate toilet training is the reason why you don't want to stand underneath a tree with an orangutan. Luckily, we escaped being used as target practice.

As the crowd stood around listening to the wardens, the outlying trees began to shake. You could hear the rustling in the branches get louder and louder as the orangutan approached the feeding platforms. Suddenly, there they were swinging through the trees. From high up in the canopy, they gradually made their way down to the bounteous feast. The orangutans delved into the fruit laid out on the platform. I think that my kids may have been a little jealous that the apes could stuff huge amounts of food into their mouths and use their hands without being reprimanded by the Table Manners Squad (a.k.a. Mom). Some of them just sat on the platform to eat while others took their food up into the trees. That's when the biggest orangutan of them all appeared, and the others cleared out so he could have the platform to himself.

Ritchie the Alpha Male

Ritchie is clearly the Alpha Male in this group. Weighing close to 300 pounds with large cheek pads, he easily smashed coconuts against the tree trunk to get at the meat. The wardens warned us the he may look slow but could easily reach us in two leaps. So don't anger him! Don't make sudden movements or talk too loudly.

Hot Mama and her little one

Also watch out for Hot Mama. Her much deserved nickname comes from her quick temper. Apparently, she has no qualms about defending her kids from humans or other orangutans. Come to think of it, I totally get where she's coming from. I think I might be this way, too. No one messes with my kids.  At one point, she started walking along the path straight towards me. One part of me wanted to get a really great closeup shot of Hot Mama, but the other part of me had scenes from Rise of the Planet of the Apes running through my mind. Did I want my last picture to be of a great big orangutan mouth opening wide to chomp on me? No, so I backed away.

The crowds keep their distance from Hot Mama while she gives a piggy back ride.

In reality, it was all a very calm experience. People murmured to each other as the orangutans made their way around in the trees. If they were down on the ground, we made sure to give them plenty of clearance. Some of the orangutans ambled along the trail to the next feeding station while the others took to the trees to get there. The wardens made sure that everyone kept a safe distance away.

After about an hour, it was time for us to leave. We stopped at the small gift shop and snack bar to make a donation to the Wildlife Centre and buy a few drinks. Seeing animals held captive in a zoo is one thing. Seeing them in their natural habitat and being reminded that we humans are both the outsiders and the ones who can either practice conservation or selfishness was something else.

This post is part of Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom? and part of Photo Friday at Delicious Baby.

The Place with Orangutans and a Scantily Clad Woman

One weekend, we decided to take our first road trip to Tai Ping on the mainland, about a 90 minute drive from Penang. "What are we going to do there?" asked the kids.

"You know. We'll all get out keyboards and typewriters and type," I replied. Hilarious, right? I bet you're laughing as much as the kids were. Which is to say, not much at all.

Our first stop was the Bukit Merah Laketown Resort. It was a long holiday weekend celebrating Malaysia Day which commemorates the formation of the Malaysia Federation in 1963. So, the local tourists were out in droves, and Andrew was pretty much the only white person I saw all weekend.

The kids can barely contain their excitement. Or not.

The 3-acre Eco Park was small and contained a few native Southeast Asian animals. This way, I can accurately tell the doctor what bit me if I encounter the animal in the wild.

Bearcat

Cobra

Next, we dragged the kids on the Skycycle much against their wills. "It will be fun!" I kept insisting. "We're hot," they kept repeating. Perhaps embarking on this journey after a morning of baseball games and birthday parties wasn't the best idea.

When I originally read about the Skycyle, I assumed it would be pedaled by foot. Silly me. It turns out that 200 meters feels like a long way to hand pedal, especially the uphill parts.

After that, we visited Orangutan Island which is actually the whole reason why I wanted to come here. I first heard about it from an Australian tourist, and it immediately landed on my Malaysian Bucket List. Did you know that "orangutan" is a Malaysian word? It's a portmanteau of "orang" (man) and "hutan" (forest) meaning "man of the forest." We boarded a small boat to make our way across the lake to the island. Once we arrived, we were ushered across a bridge into a caged tunnel. Unlike a typical zoo where the animals are in cages, and the humans wander around, the situation was reversed on this island.

The highlight of the island is the Orangutan Nursery. They care for babies who are suffering from maternal neglect or an illness. With the diapers and the cribs, it seemed very much like a human nursery. Imagine what it would be like if your baby could swing around and use their feet and tails for gripping things. What's the babyproofing in there like?

So very sweet! I think my kids were having fun at this point.

After leaving Bukit Merah, we headed towards Tai Ping for our hotel and a visit to the Night Zoo. Due to an overly long dinner and the 2 busloads of tourists that arrived just before us, we weren't able to board the Night Zoo tram until 10 p.m.

Kernel Corn is a BIG snack food in Malaysia. It's even an ice cream topping.

By this time, I think we were all rather tired. I actually fell asleep. This is what it must be like to be a toddler napping in her stroller. I'd momentarily wake up, look around and see an alligator or porcupine or whatever and then fall back asleep.

Okay, I know this picture isn't very good, but it represents my brain fog at the time.

The next day, we returned to Bukit Merah to enjoy their waterpark and chairlift. At first, I declared that chairlifts were useless if one didn't have skis strapped to their feet and snow on the ground, but the kids kept begging. After I caved and rode it, I'll admit that it's actually a pleasant way to see the sights. This was probably the best part of the trip for my younguns.

The waterpark was small but had enough activities to entertain us for a few hours. The kids seemed to enjoy the Giant Wet Bubble which was an inflated 20-foot-high bouncy dome with a water mushroom on top. The most memorable part for me is that I was the one and only woman in a bathing suit. The crowd was predominantly Muslim, so all those women had on headscarves, shirts that reached down to their wrists and pants that went down to their ankles. No, there were no burkas since I imagine that would be rather hard to manage in a waterpark. There were a few Chinese women wearing shorts and T-shirts. And then there was me as the most scantily clad woman around. Me in my Lands End one-piece that I selected because I thought a small child could hang off the front and still not reveal anything was the one showing the most skin. Fortunately, no one seemed to be gawking at me or else I would have been even more self conscious. Note that there is not an accompanying picture for this part of the story.

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