Thursday, November 21, 2013

Terracotta Warriors and Tandem Bikes: 24 Hours in Xi'an

The Terracotta Warriors were uncovered in Xi'an, China

Imagine being a farmer just outside of Xi'an, the former capital of ancient China and starting point of the legendary Silk Road. It's 1974, and frankly, all that you are looking for is a new source of water during this time of drought. You start digging a well in the same earth where generations before you have plowed and buried their dead. You uncover bits of a clay figure. Odd shards of pottery have been dug up around here for centuries. Unlike others, you don't dismiss it as insignificant. You've just discovered one of the greatest archeological finds in the world a life-size army of terracotta warriors and horses.

The Terracotta Warriors are one of the top tourists draws in China. Note that it is nowhere near Beijing, the Forbidden City or the Great Wall. Most Westerners hop on a plane to get here. The clay army is what draws most tourists to Xi'an, but other historical sites exist in this 3,100-year-old city, too. It turned out to be a place my whole family, both kids and adults, enjoyed even though we had just 24 hours to get out and explore.


The centuries-old wall encircling old Xi'an is the largest in the world.

Cycling on the City Wall

After our delayed flight finally arrived in mid-afternoon, our first stop in Xi'an was the City Wall which happens to be the largest one in the world. It measures 12 meters (36 feet) tall, 18 meters (54 feet) at the bottom, and 15 meters (45 feet) across at the top. The rectangular city wall wraps itself around the old city, covering 13.7 km (8.5 miles) and is interrupted by gates on each side which were closed each night when it still provided fortification for China's former capitol.

When the kids saw the bicycle rental shop on top of the wall, they immediately decided that it was a much better option than walking. At US$6.60 per 100 minutes for a single bicycle and double that for a twin, we adults didn't argue with them. Hubby and I both got tandem bikes to share with the younger kids while my teen took off on his own. This was indeed a very popular way for tourists to get around, so I was quite glad that the wall was so wide on top. Rental shops are by each gate, and customers can return their bikes at any of them. As we rode around, we peeked out through the battlements and kept smelling the inescapable aroma of stir-fried food. After an hour, we were ready to head off to the next stop.

Taking a break from biking at one of the corner towers on the Xi'an City Wall.

The Bell Tower and Drum Tower

Both hubby and I weren't expecting much from our Bell Tower visit, thinking that it was just a way to fill time before heading to the hotel. It turned out to be more interesting than we thought. Standing at the geographical center of old Xi'an, it's surrounded by a giant roundabout connected to the North, South, East, and West Streets which extend outwards towards the City Wall gates. The juxtaposition between the tower built in 1384 and the luxe shopping malls with Starbucks and Haagen-Dazs on the outer side of the roundabout sums up Xi'an perfectly. It's a mix of old and new.

The massive 5-ton bell that tourists are NOT allowed to ring much to my kids dismay.

The wooden, 3-story tower sits atop a tall brick base. Centuries ago, the bell was rung at dawn to signify that it was time to open the four city gates. At nightfall, the giant drums of the Drum Tower a block away were played to indicate it was time for the gates to close. I imagine that in the 14th century, it must have loomed over the town. Both the outside and the inside are covered with intricate paintings. You can climb the stairs inside and go out to the surrounding balconies for a good city view.

The Drum Tower at night as seen from the Bell Tower

By now, it was time to head to our hotel for dinner and a restful night's sleep.  The next day would bring the highlight of our time in Xi'an, a visit to the Terracotta Army.

An Army Frozen in Time


The Terracotta Army stands ready in Pit 1.
See the tourists standing behind the railing against the side walls?

Qin Shi Huangdi, the "First Emperor," unified China in 221 B.C. and died in 210 B.C. He is best known in the modern world as the man who required an entire terracotta army to protect him in his afterlife. In the almost 40 years since the first pieces were discovered, archeologists have located 600 underground vaults within a 22-square-mile area. Only three vaults (pits) have been thoroughly excavated so far. This small sample of Qin Shi Huangdi's necropolis contains an estimated 7,500 soldiers, 130 chariots with 520 horses, and 150 cavalry horses.

When you walk into Pit 1, the army is amassed and standing at attention as if ready to head off to war. The sheer size of the dig invokes awe. That's something that cannot be transported to the touring exhibits in museums around the world.

Imagine what the other 597 pits must contain. Test digs have revealed bronze waterfowl as well as clay officials, musicians and acrobats. I guess he needed counsel, protection, and entertainment after death. A forested berm has been identified as the Emperor's actual tomb, but it has so far been left undisturbed until archeologists are certain they have adequate techniques to protect what they find there.

Amazing attention to detail, even down to the tread on a soldier's shoes.

The warriors were crafted with mix-and-match molds, allowing each one to look a little different from the next. They were mass produced and painted before being carted down into the underground vaults. Earthen walls between the army columns supported wooden beams that held up reed mats, waterproofing clay layers, and the soil used to bury the terracotta soldiers. As time marched on, the beams collapsed, crushing the warriors beneath them. By the time the 20th century rolled around, archeologists were left with a gigantic jigsaw puzzle of attempting to reconstruct each man. As the paint was exposed to air, it quickly disintegrated. This is why the scientists have been proceeding with caution, nervous at uncovering other materials that they currently cannot preserve. As each soldier or horse is completed, it is moved back to its original position.

Some paint remains on these Warriors.


Each warrior is tagged and his location noted as they are unearthed in Pit 1.

The "hospital" in Pit 1 where archeologists reassemble warriors.

Restored warriors at the front with the fragments in the back.


Four soldiers are displayed so that you can get an up close look at them.

After three hours visiting the Terracotta Warriors, we headed for the airport in hopes of finding a late lunch there before we departed. It was just under 24 hours since we had first set foot in Xi'an.

What happened to the farmer who was looking for water but discovered an army? He now sits behind a desk at the gift shop, signing autographs and posing for photos for those willing to pay him. It's nice work if you can get it.


This post is part of Travel Photo Thursday on Budget Travelers Sandbox, "Oh the Places I've Been" on The Tablescaper and "Sunday Traveler" on Ice Cream and Permafrost. Check them out for more around-the-world travel inspiration.


30 comments:

  1. wow, that is a fast tour, I love the huge bell! Xian is amazing, surprising that the royal tomb hasn't been unearth after all this time...amazing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. We wished we had more than 24 hours in Xi'an. There's more to see in that city.

      Delete
  2. What an incredible experience. My kids learned all about the terracota warriors and it's on our places to visit.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I really liked that my kids knew about the Terracotta Warriors before we even started planning our trip. It helped to get them interested in visiting China.

      Delete
  3. What a neat visit! I always wanted to see the Terracotta soldiers. The closest we've gotten (and probably ever will get) was at a traveling exhibit in Atlanta. It was so neat to see the small selection of pieces on display but it was so crowded!

    I can't imagine how excited that farmer must have been at his discovery! Simply amazing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You saw it too, Tonya? I did in NYC. Very impressive, even the small selection they were able to show.

      Delete
    2. I still haven't figured out how the farmer knew it was something important whereas numerous generations before him had ignored all the terracotta they kept digging up.

      Delete
  4. Oh my goodness, what a great tour you took us on! I am always amazed at the unearthed army and would hope to someday see them in person. . .until then, thanks for sharing these photos with us all.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It was so interesting to see the actual dig site. I have other photos of the archeology team's filing cabinets and work desks in the middle of everything.

      Delete
  5. The terracotta warriors has been on my list, like forever - well, almost. So when the exhibition came to NYC a year or so ago, I made sure to see it. Pretty spectacular.
    That bell is calling out to be rung. I'd be so tempted, I'd just as dismayed and disappointed as your kids.

    ReplyDelete
  6. I really want to see these. I missed replica ones they used to have in Houston. They aren't there anymore.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I was in Houston when the exhibit was happening. I thought about going, but the Children's Museum won out over it. Plus, I suspected I'd be seeing the real thing soon.

      Delete
  7. I've always wanted to see the Terracotta Warriors! It looks amazing in pictures, I bet it's breathtaking in person! Thanks for sharing your pictures and reminding me to put Xi'an on my travel list!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, seeing them in person was definitely quite and experience.

      Delete
  8. Terracotta Warriors - amazing! More amazing is how this massive archaeological wonder was discovered.

    ReplyDelete
  9. I've seen a traveling exhibit of the terracotta warriors, but I didn't realize the scale of the original find. It would be amazing to see them all!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Thank you so much for showing us this fantastic city. Your style of writing is so very interesting. I feel like I now know more about China in more detail while following your travels.

    ReplyDelete
  11. this is quite amazing. Would love to see it.
    Thanks for giving me teh name of the tree. Rainbow Eucalyptus. :)

    ReplyDelete
  12. I absolutely love your opening paragraph! I have not heard of riding bikes on the wall, what a great idea and not expensive either. You certainly packed a lot in to a short time. Glad you all enjoyed it.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Ho interesting! Your photos are fabulous. I have some warriors my sister gave me after she visited China. Thanks for sharing!...Christine

    ReplyDelete
  14. I've been wanting to see the Terracotta Warriors for ages, but I had no idea there were so many pits yet to be completely excavated. I also didn't know that they were discovered by a farmer digging for water. Totally interesting.

    ReplyDelete
  15. I have wanted to visit these warriors but didn't know too much about the site or how it was found. What an interesting history. I love how you guys were able to see so much in 24 hours. Beautiful pictures, Michele but what a precious family photo too. I need to keep a lookout for the exhibits when they come to my area. Such a great experience for your kids.

    ReplyDelete
  16. It's quite an experience entering that sci-fi type building and staring down into those ancient pits. You did really well to see the warriors and cycle the wall in 24 hours. Shame you missed lunch in the city - There's a famous dumpling restaurant there - can't remember the name but they do 1,000s of different ones. I had melon beer there - it's delish - had never had it before or since. I also met the farmer .... Did you wonder if the same farmer is there all the time?

    ReplyDelete
  17. I picked up one of those at the airport in Beijing after the Olympics. No, I realize that mine isn't real, but it still looks great on a bookshelf. :)

    ReplyDelete
  18. Like others, the Terracotta Warriors are on my list of things I really want to see, but I didn't know a lot of the history. Thanks for sharing and thanks for linking up to the Sunday Traveler! Hope to see you next week! :)

    ReplyDelete
  19. 13.7 km long walls - that's impressive. I'm not surprised you needed a bicycle. It must be something to ride a bike at 12 m tall walls. Terracotta Warriors Site looks just amazing. Thanks for linking up your blog to Sunday Traveler.

    ReplyDelete
  20. The sheer size of this archeological site is just astounding. I've seen a traveling exhibit of these terracotta figures, but would love to one day visit the real thing. 600 pits?! I can't even imagine what it must have been like for those who had to make all these warriors. Thanks for linking up to the Sunday Traveler! Looking forward to your post next week!

    ReplyDelete

I read each and every comment. Thank you so much for sharing your thoughts. Comment moderation is on, so your comment may not appear immediately.

Web Analytics