Wishes Made at Kyoto's Kiyomizu Temple

The veranda and 3-story pagoda of Kyoto's legendary Kiyomizu Temple

One of the most popular places to visit in Kyoto is Kiyomizu Temple (Kiyomizu-dera), especially during cherry blossom season. Even though I realized this when planning the trip, I didn't fully appreciate the magnitude of the crowd. Our first clue was the extremely long queue at Kyoto Station to board a bus to the temple. After calculating that we wouldn't get on the first two buses to come by, we opted for a taxi. The driver ran into traffic along the way, and we ended up taking a winding detour through back alley streets to get there. The kids took this as an opportunity to zonk out and nap, and I thought this was a good way to see a part of the city that's off the tourist track. Almost an hour went by, and we were just beginning to very slowly creep up the road leading to the temple entrance. Finally, the cab driver told us it would be faster to  walk, so we hopped out and jumped into the crowd, tightly gripping our kids' hands. We strolled through the busy, narrow market street of the Higashiyama District taking time to ply the young ones with a few snacks to raise their flagging spirits since I really wanted to see this one last place before calling it quits for the day. In the end, it turned out to be worthy of all the hoopla and praise heaped on this scenic site.

Enter by the Deva Gate with the 3-Story Pagoda behind it

Many Japanese tourists enjoyed this national treasure and UNESCO Cultural World Heritage site along with us. Some were bundled up against the chill weather while others were dressed in traditional kimonos.

Dressed for a day of picture taking and sightseeing

One of the iconic buildings of the temple grounds is the Main Hall and the veranda of its Kiyomizu stage. Its 12 meter high (36 feet) support pillars were constructed without using a single nail, and
the floor was assembled from more than 410 cypress boards. The view of Kyoto from up here is spectacular. This place inspired the Japanese idiom "jumping from the veranda of Kiyomizu Temple" to mean that someone is about to take a bold or daring adventure. Supposedly, you would be granted your wish if you survived the jump. In the Edo era, 234 jumps were recorded, and 85.4% survived. The others were not so lucky. I decided not to test it out.

Looking up at the veranda. No way would I jump from there!

Another tradition at Kiyomizu temple is walking between the Love Stones at Jishu Shrine. This Shinto shrine behind the Main Hall is the dwelling place of Okuninushi, the god of love and matchmaking. According to the sign, "If you walk safely from this stone to the other with your eyes closed, for once, your wish will be granted soon. If you can't, it will be long before your love is realized." The greatest challenge of crossing the 6 meters (18 feet) between the two stones was avoiding the numerous people wandering across your path and being deflected off course. I'm sure it's easier to stay straight on less busy days. My daughter failed in her attempt, but since she was only 6 years old, I was hoping it would be a long, long, very long time before her love is realized, anyways.

Walking between the Love-fortune-telling Stones

Kiyomizu-dera means "Temple of the Clear Water" and is named after Otowa Falls. Water from a mountain spring has been falling her since before it was originally built back in 778. Many visitors drink the sacred spring water from a ladle since it's supposed to have wish granting powers. In retrospect, I really should have done it and asked for quick transport back to our hotel after a long day.

I think drinking spring water from Otowa Falls seems like a better option for gaining luck than jumping off the veranda.

The cherry blossoms were indeed beautiful, and I can see why so many people flock to this site in the springtime. When we were there, the temple was going to have one of its rare night openings, but we were too tuckered out to last much past sunset.

Cherry Blossoms blooming over the pond by the 3-Story Pagoda

We eventually left and began walking back down the hill through the shopping street. It's been catering to temple tourists for centuries and have used that time well to hone their skills at offering tempting wares.  I really could have done some damage to my wallet here, but all of us just wanted to get home. (Or perhaps my hubby drank from the Otowa Falls when I wasn't looking and wished for me to have an uncharacteristic lack of interest in shopping.) Eventually, we made it to the main street where we caught a bus back to Kyoto Station. Kiyomuzi Temple is an Ancient Kyoto icon and a must-see when visiting this town.

Oddly, I wasn't at all inclined to shop despite the gorgeous wares displayed in the shops.
Perhaps strange forces were at work.

Click here to view the Visitor's Guide with Admission fees, Operating Hours, and an Access Guide for Kiyomizu Temple.

Related Posts:
Kyoto Station is Enchanted
The 10,000 Torii Gates of Kyoto's Fushimi-Inari Shrine

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Kyoto Station is Enchanted

The very modern Kyoto Station

You don't really have go out of your way to see Kyoto Station. It will draw you in. You cannot escape it's gravitational pull. It seems like we transferred through it at least 4 times each day while sightseeing around this historic city.

Oh, and by the way, it's enchanted. That is the only explanation that I can come up with to understand how both hubby and I could never figure out where exactly in the station we were. Clearly, someone had cast a spell on us. Each time we'd enter from the street or emerge from a train or subway, it seemed like we were in an entirely unfamiliar section. We'd have multiple maps out, but none of them seemed to show the entire station layout -- just parts of it. Hubby and I stood there trying to piece together which sections of various maps overlapped in order to figure out the big picture. Of course the kids just patiently waited while we tried to puzzle it out... NOT!

We weren't so much worried about finding the right train as figuring out where our luggage was stored.

But to be honest, Kyoto Station isn't such a bad place to be lost. There are tons of women's clothing stores on one of the levels. (Don't ask me which one.) If I was a thousand dollars richer, I would have had quite a shopping spree. Not finding my luggage would be a moot point, right?

The station has plenty of restaurants, too. I think we had four of our six Kyoto meals there. There's even, mon dieu, a Cafe du Monde! Who goes to Japan to eat New Orleans food? Expats who live in Malaysia and long for a taste of the Deep South. We are the same family who went to Singapore for Tex-Mex.

At another place, I realized how authentic ramen soup loaded up with veggies, hard-boiled egg and sliced meats is vastly superior to the plain, instant ramen I ate during my thrifty, university student days. The efficiency of ordering each dish by number and having the waitress enter it immediately into her digital tablet at many restaurants impressed me, too.

By the third day, we finally got our bearings. The spell was broken, but the magic of Kyoto Station still lingers.

The Cafe du Monde is at the top of these escalators.

Related Post:
The 10,000 Torii Gates of Kyoto's Fushimi-Inari Shrine


This post is part of Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom? Check it out for more travel inspiration.

The 10,000 Torii Gates of Kyoto's Fushimi-Inari Shrine

Every gate is donated, and each one is marked with the donor's name and date of contribution.

When I began planning our trip to Japan last spring, I asked the advice of my dear cousin, Sandra, who had visited there recently. She wrote back,

"There are vending machines for drinks everywhere!!! Like literally everywhere. In the middle of tiny alleyways and right next to people's driveways. So it's good to have coins handy. Loved the green tea ice cream. I think I ate that everyday I was there. "

She also recommended Fushimi-Inari Shrine in Kyoto. As soon as I saw the pictures, I instantly recognized it from one of my favorite scenes in Memoirs of a Geisha when young Sayuri runs through them. Thousands of vermilion torii gates line pathways stretching from behind the shrine's main ground upwards into the wooded hills of sacred Mount Inari. It immediately went on my Must-See List.

Getting there was quite easy. It's across the street from the JR Inari Station, a couple stops from Kyoto Station on the JR Nara Line. We reached it just an hour before dark and found the place quiet with only a few visitors milling around.

Enter through a giant torii gate and then the Romon Gate (donated in 1589).

Stone foxes, messengers of the gods, sit next to the gate watching over a woman dressed in a traditional kimono.

Fox face ema tablets offer up wishes and prayers to spirits and gods.

 

Two paths, two boys

The dense rows of gates occasionally stop, giving you a view of Kyoto.



Perhaps this young bride is practicing her walk down the aisle.

We had to turn around before reaching the summit since dusk was beginning to settle on the city. I'm so glad my family went, and I'm thankful that Sandra's suggestion led us there.



......................................................

 

Sadly, Sandra was suddenly taken from us last weekend. Other than liking each other's Instagram posts, her Kyoto trip recommendation sent six months ago was the last time we communicated. My memories of Fushimi-Inari Shrine are now tinged with sorrow. Even though justice will surely be served, it can't change that she's gone from this earth. But I take solace in knowing that our feet walked on the same pathways and that we both found joy in the experience. I love you Sandra.


Related Post:
Kyoto Station is Enchanted

 

This post is part of Travel Photo Thursday on Budget Travelers Sandbox, Photo Friday at Delicious Baby, Travel Bucket List Wednesdays at Latin Abroad, and Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom? Check them out for more around-the-world travel inspiration.